Who It Suits
Darts is a precision target game: you stand behind a throwing line (the oche) and throw three darts at a 20-segment board, scoring by where each dart lands — singles, doubles, triples, and the bull — then count down from a starting score such as 501 to exactly zero, finishing on a double. A beginner’s first session is usually simple: stand at the line, throw gently at a large segment, group three darts close together, and play a relaxed game while a friend or the venue keeps score.
It suits people who like short, repeatable sessions, hand-eye precision, and games that can be quiet solo practice or loud pub competition. The honest constraints: you need regular access to a board (a pub, club, or a properly set-up home board), steel-tip play needs a real bristle board and a safe throwing area, and the first weeks are about a repeatable throw, not high scores.
Decision Snapshot
| Beginner question | Practical answer |
|---|---|
| Best first step | Play at a pub, darts club, or venue with a board already set up — or set up a safe home board before buying darts. |
| Typical first-session cost | Pub play is usually the price of a drink or a small fee; a home setup is the larger one-off cost. |
| Weekly time commitment | One or two 30–60 minute sessions a week builds a repeatable throw; more speeds up scoring progress. |
| Space requirement | A venue board is the easiest start. A home steel-tip board needs a clear wall, about 2.4 m of throwing distance, and protection for missed darts. |
| Which variant? | Steel-tip on a sisal (bristle) board is the standard for pubs, clubs, and leagues; soft-tip electronic boards are the easier home option. |
| Fitness level | Low. Standing, a relaxed arm motion, and steady concentration; playable seated with the right setup. |
| Social level | High. Pubs, clubs, leagues, and home matches make it easy to find opponents of all levels. |
| Good fit if | You like precision, short sessions, visible progress, and a hobby that works solo or in a group. |
| Bad fit if | You want a high-movement sport, need to start outdoors, or can’t guarantee a safe throwing area at home. |
Key Terms
A few words do most of the work in darts coaching, pub conversations, and shop fittings:
- Oche — the throwing line, 2.37 m (7 ft 9.25 in) from the face of a steel-tip board. You throw from behind it.
- Bull / bullseye — the centre of the board. The outer bull scores 25; the inner bull (the bullseye) scores 50 and counts as a double for finishing.
- Single, double, triple — the wide segment (face value), the narrow outer ring (double the value), and the narrow inner ring (triple the value). Triple 20, the top segment, scores 60.
- Checkout — the final sequence of darts that takes a player from a remaining score to exactly zero, ending on a double or the bullseye.
- Bust — a turn that would take the score below zero, to exactly 1, or to zero without a double. The score reverts to what it was at the start of the turn.
- Leg — one complete game, for example counting down from 501 to zero. Matches are won by legs.
- 180 — three triple 20s in one turn, the maximum turn score.
- Double-out — the standard rule that the final dart must land in a double (or the bullseye).
- Steel-tip darts — darts with metal points, thrown at a sisal (bristle) board. The standard for pubs, clubs, and competition.
- Soft-tip darts — plastic-tipped darts for electronic boards; lighter, and the usual home option.
- Tungsten — a dense barrel material that lets darts be thinner at the same weight, so darts sit closer together on the board.
- Flights — the plastic fins at the back of a dart that stabilise flight; replaceable, like shafts.
- Surround — a protective ring or backboard around a home board that catches missed darts.
Getting Started
The cheapest first step is a venue that already has a board: a pub, darts club, recreation centre, or a friend’s home setup. Ask which board it is (steel-tip or soft-tip), where the oche is marked, and how they keep score. A club beginner night or a short session with an experienced player is the fastest way to learn local rules and etiquette.
If you want to play at home, set up the board safely before you buy darts: mount it on a sturdy wall, protect the surrounding wall, and mark the throwing line. Details are in Space Needed below.
Darts is governed at different levels, and each is a useful gateway:
- World Darts Federation (WDF) — the international federation; its regulations set the standard board and playing distances used in regulated play.
- Professional Darts Corporation (PDC) — runs the major professional tours and tournaments; its rules define the 501 formats you see on television.
- National associations — WDF member bodies, such as the England Darts Organisation, run or support amateur competition in their countries. Local clubs and leagues are the most direct beginner route.
Board and Dart Types
| Type | What it is | Beginner suitability | Typical setting |
|---|---|---|---|
| Steel-tip on sisal (bristle) board | Metal-pointed darts into a self-healing sisal fibre board. | The standard for pubs, clubs, and leagues; best if you want your practice to transfer to regulated play. | Pubs, clubs, home setups with a proper board and surround. |
| Soft-tip on electronic board | Plastic-tipped darts into a sensor board that scores automatically. | Easier home option: no manual scoring, less wall damage, and the board can be stored away. | Home, offices, some bars. |
Steel-tip darts are typically around 20–26 g, soft-tip darts around 16–20 g. Beginners are well served by a mid-weight set (roughly 20–24 g for steel-tip) that feels comfortable to throw repeatedly; you can fine-tune weight later. Tungsten barrels are the common upgrade because they stay slim at a given weight, but brass or nickel sets are fine to start.
Basic Gear
| Item | Essential starter | Optional later | Avoid at first |
|---|---|---|---|
| Darts | A set of three mid-weight darts that feel comfortable in your grip. | Tungsten barrels, spare flights and shafts, a case. | Expensive pro darts before you know your preferred weight and grip. |
| Board | Access to a venue board, or a sisal board for home steel-tip play. | A soft-tip electronic board for scoring convenience. | Cheap cardboard or cork boards for regular steel-tip play — they wear out fast and bounce darts out. |
| Protection | A surround or backboard and wall protection for any home board. | A dart mat to mark the oche and protect the floor. | An unprotected wall behind a steel-tip board. |
| Scoring | Paper, a chalkboard, or a scoring app. | A dedicated scoreboard. | — |
| Lighting | A light that shines on the board without casting shadows. | A dedicated board light. | — |
First Session
Set the board at the standard height — bull centre 1.73 m (5 ft 8 in) from the floor — and mark the oche 2.37 m (7 ft 9.25 in) from the face of the board for steel-tip play (2.44 m / 8 ft for soft-tip). If you’re at a venue, just use the marked line.
Then:
- Stand behind the oche with your throwing arm relaxed; a comfortable, repeatable stance matters more than a “correct” one.
- Aim at a large single segment (single 20 is the usual target) and throw gently enough that your arm can repeat the motion.
- Group all three darts of a turn close together before chasing high scores.
- Play a simple game — round the clock (hitting segments 1 to 20 in order) or a relaxed 301 — before worrying about 501 checkouts.
How 501 Works
501 is the standard competitive format and the one you’ll meet in most pubs and clubs:
- Each player starts on 501 and subtracts the score of each three-dart turn.
- Singles score the segment’s face value, doubles twice it, triples three times it; the outer bull is 25 and the inner bull 50.
- The player who reaches exactly zero wins the leg — but the final dart must land in a double or the inner bull (double-out).
- If a turn would take the score below zero, to exactly 1, or to zero without a double, the turn is a bust and the score reverts to the start of the turn.
- Some formats add double-in, where the first scoring dart of the leg must also be a double.
Checkout examples worth knowing early (each is three darts):
| Remaining | Checkout |
|---|---|
| 170 | Triple 20, triple 20, bullseye — the maximum possible |
| 167 | Triple 20, triple 19, bullseye |
| 164 | Triple 20, triple 18, bullseye |
| 161 | Triple 19, triple 18, bullseye |
| 160 | Triple 20, triple 20, double 20 |
| 158 | Triple 20, triple 20, double 19 |
| 157 | Triple 20, triple 19, double 20 |
There is no three-dart checkout from 159: it is a bogey number, so a player should leave a finish rather than aim to reach 159 with three darts in hand.
Other common games: 301 is the same game from a lower start (faster legs, popular in casual play); cricket closes the numbers 15–20 and the bull by hitting each three times, then scores on closed numbers; round the clock is a simple warm-up game.
First Month
Practise in short sessions two or three times a week if possible. A sensible sequence:
- Weeks 1–2: a consistent stance, relaxed grip, and smooth release. Aim at single 20 and judge grouping, not score.
- Weeks 3–4: add the triple 20 as a deliberate target and start practising doubles (double 20, double 16, double 10) as a separate drill.
- Ongoing: learn the value of every scoring zone and a handful of common checkouts, then play full 501 or 301 games to practise finishing under pressure.
Costs
Darts is one of the cheaper precision hobbies to start. Typical starter ranges (they vary by country, retailer, and exchange rates — check local prices):
- Beginner set of three steel-tip darts with flights and shafts: roughly £20–£50 / $25–$60.
- Sisal board for home play: roughly £40–£100 / $40–$100, plus a surround or backboard (roughly £10–£30 / $10–$35).
- Soft-tip electronic board: roughly £100–£300 / $100–$300, usually with darts included.
- Venue play: usually the price of a drink at a pub or a small session fee; club membership and league fees vary locally.
Costs rise later with tungsten darts, spare parts, cases, coaching, travel, and tournament entry.
Space Needed
Darts needs less room than many target sports, but the throwing area must be safe. For a home steel-tip setup:
- A clear, sturdy wall with the board mounted at 1.73 m to the bull centre.
- About 2.4 m from the board face to the oche, plus room for the player to stand and move behind the line — a throwing area roughly 1.5 m wide by 3.3–3.5 m long is a sensible minimum.
- A ceiling high enough for a natural arcing throw (around 2.4 m / 8 ft or more).
- A surround or backboard and wall protection for missed darts, and good lighting on the board.
Soft-tip electronic boards reduce wall damage and can be stored away, but they still need a clear throwing area. If you can’t guarantee a safe setup at home, a pub or club board is the better route.
Solo or Social
Darts works well alone because practice sessions can be short and measurable — grouping, checkouts, and 180s all improve with repetition. It also becomes highly social through pubs, clubs, leagues, casual home matches, office boards, and local tournaments. Playing with others helps beginners learn pace, etiquette, scoring, and pressure.
Common Mistakes
- Buying expensive darts before knowing your preferred weight and grip.
- Throwing too hard instead of building a repeatable motion.
- Ignoring board safety and wall protection at home.
- Practising only triple 20 and never doubles or setup shots.
- Letting scoring maths interrupt the rhythm of a beginner game.
- Letting anyone stand in front of the board while darts are in play.
- Practising at a random distance instead of the standard oche, so your game doesn’t transfer to venues.
Safety / Accessibility
Sharp darts, bounce-outs, damaged walls, crowded throwing areas, and alcohol around play are the main concerns. The core rules:
- Keep people clear of the board and the area in front of it while darts are in play; never throw over someone’s head.
- Retrieve darts only after a turn is finished, and pull them out with your face away from the board.
- Use good lighting, a stable board mount, and wall protection, and keep children out of the throwing area.
- Stop if your shoulder, elbow, or wrist hurts; a sore arm is usually a sign of throwing too hard or with poor form.
Darts is also one of the more adaptable target sports: seated play, a lower board height (regulation wheelchair darts uses 1.37 m / 4 ft 6 in to the bull), soft-tip boards, and larger-target or magnetic setups all make the hobby accessible to more players. Junior formats vary by organiser, so check the local association’s board-height and throwing-distance rules rather than assuming they are reduced.
Where It Can Go
Darts can lead toward league play, pub teams, tournament formats, cricket, 301, 501, checkout study, equipment tuning, statistics tracking, coaching, or hosting regular social nights.
References
Last reviewed: 17 August 2026.
Editorial note: This page is written as beginner discovery guidance, not as a maintained product ranking. Gear prices are typical starter ranges and vary by country, retailer, and exchange rates; check local venues and shops for current costs.
Official and institutional sources:
- Professional Darts Corporation: Rules — the official PDC rules and competition regulations, including 501 formats, double-out, and match structures.
- World Darts Federation — the international federation for darts; its regulations set the standard board and playing distances (steel-tip oche 2.37 m, bull height 1.73 m) used in regulated play, and its member directory points to national amateur bodies.
Community resources (optional):
- Your national WDF member association for local clubs, leagues, and beginner events.
- Shot Darts: Darts distance rules — a practical home-setup guide covering official steel-tip, soft-tip, and wheelchair measurements; a retailer blog, so treat it as practical context rather than authority.
Related Hobbies
Bowling, archery, golf, and billiards share the aim-and-release feel, while chess and board games share the planning-ahead, low-impact mindset.